Day 27 - Darkness

And then there was light...at 5pm...thus afternoon. Yes, today was one of waking up in the dark (at 9.30am) and cold, to pull on some clothes and meet the day without a shower, light, or food as the blackout lasted far longer than expected.

We decided to drive into the city centre for some shopping, because Dunnotar castle (the reason for being in Aberdeen) was closed for the second day due to the high winds making it too dangerous to visit. We had some breakfast and spent the majority of the day just wandering around, so nothing very interesting today. We decided to come back to the hotel before dinner to see how things were going, and were told on arrival that the power had been on for about an hour, but if we wanted a shower, to wait for at least another half and hour or so because the boilers needed to warm up properly.

As a result, we're just pottering about, writing this up, before heading out for dinner on our last night in Scotland.

- Jess

We drove half an hour south to Stonehaven to the place that invented the deep fried Mars bar. We first went to another fish and chip shop and I ate deep fried pizza with a side of chips (!) with Irn Bru and Jess had fish & chips. After this we went to the aforementioned, infamous chipper to get a deep fried Mars bar. It was amazing. You'd struggle to eat one yourself as it's so rich (especially after a deep fried pizza and chips), luckily we shared one. We then returned to our hotel, which today decided to have power, and retired for the evening. Tomorrow it's an early start as we're driving to sunny, dry York (hopefully), via Masham (pronounced Massam) to meet one of Jess' colleagues for a pint. It's about 600kms...

- Andrew

Day 26 - Glenfiddich

Day 26

Today was all about experiencing some quintessential Scottish culture - whiskey! We couldn't visit Scotland without seeing at least one distillery, and Glenfiddich distillery was just over an hours drive away, so we set off for a drive into the mountains. The winding roads were beautiful. The distillery itself is in the township of Dufftown, set in the hills, for reasons made clear in the tour.

It's a family owned company, and when the founders built the distillery, they also purchased 1200 acres around the source of the spring which provides the water. This means it's apparently the purest water used for whiskey anywhere in the world.

The geography of the town itself was historically important, as the locals could see inspectors coming and hide their stills, aided by local women who would hang out red washing to warn they were coming. The tour was fascinating, we saw the whole process, smelled forty year old whiskey, and I now understand why some bottles are $47000. Sort of.

There was a tasting at the end, I was ambivalent really, but because I was the driver I got to take a little bottle home. By the end, it was very dark outside, so we drove back to town for food and shopping. We had some excellent burgers made with Jimmy's rare breed cows, and I bought some gloves and a beanie. We also bought some wrapping paper, so we could wrap presents upon our return to the hotel.

Everything was fine, we were happily wrapping things up, when there was a blackout. At the time of writing it's been nearly two hours without power. We went down to reception to see what the issue is, and it's the whole area that's out. They had the fire going, so we stayed for a chat, and took a candle back with us. Luckily our room was toasty, so we should be fine for the night.

*Power went off at 9.45pm yesterday, came back at 4.10pm today, around 19 hours without power.

Days 24 and 25 - Skye and Aberdeen

Apologies for not posting yesterday, the internet connection on Skye was intermittent and weak at best. That aside, it is one of the most stunningly beautiful places we've ever visited. We began our day with a 'ramble' through the fields and moors surrounding the cottage, and learned a number of interesting things. One, sheep are far more agile than I previously gave them credit for. Two, whilst the moors may appear to be gently undulating expanses of wild grasses and heather, they are actually treacherous granite boulders interspersed with prickly bushes, grass and heather that is over half a metre high, and the ground is utterly sodden, to the point that I nearly lost my rain boots to mud that went halfway up my shin on a number of occasions. Three, the wind on Skye is like nothing I've felt before. Four, hills are much bigger up close. And finally, I'd go back in a heartbeat.

Our 'walk' took longer than expected, mainly because we decided that going off track seemed like a good plan, and we wanted to see the view from atop a small hill we were circling. It was safe, just very difficult terrain, deceptively so. The view was spectacular, however, and well worth the extra effort. Walking is the number one activity to do on Skye, and it's completely understandable given the stunning terrain and astonishing views. We were also particularly lucky with the weather. Whilst it was windy, there was no rain at all and it was beautifully clear for the entire duration of our visit.

After our bracing ramble we decided to drive the length of the peninsula to soak up more of the scenery, so we drove around the coast, stopping occasionally to hop out and enjoy the views. At one point, we were delighted to find a house featured on Grand Designs a few seasons ago (we just drove past) and really, by the time were were finished, the light was fading and it was time to head back to the cottage. We had dinner at the cottage, as there is a tiny restaurant run by the owners, and it was a lovely quiet meal. Afterwards, I finally got a chance to have a play of the Steinway in the sitting room, then we were ready for a night of British television and cider.

We had a relatively early start this morning as we knew that our drive from Skye to Aberdeen was one of the most likely to be affected by the flooding. However, we actually had an excellent run, in spite of the single lane A roads (as is one lane for both directions!), so we had time to stop in Inverness for a lovely lunch at a recommended restaurant overlooking the river. Following lunch, the traffic increased a little, slowing our progress somewhat, and as we neared Aberdeen-shire the rain became heavier, meaning that it was well and truly dark by the time we arrived at our beautiful hotel, a grand house that was converted to a hotel. In the end, we only encountered one road closure, so we got in around five.

For some reason, they upgraded us to a premium room, which is excellent, and since everything is shut after six, we just had a light meal in the bar before coming back to the room to type up our post and chill out with our leftover drinks from yesterday. Bottoms up!

Day 23 - Through the Highlands to Skye

What a magnificent day! We left Edinburgh for a very long drive to Greshornish on the Isle of Skye, and what a drive it was. There are very few roads I've ever seen that rival the splendour of the drive through the Scottish highlands. It seemed that every bend gave rise to yet another stunning vista of snow topped mountains, waterfalls down craggy cliff faces, forest and woodlands, and lochs still enough to reflect the panoramas back at us. I'll admit to a moment of panic when the gps had me turn onto a sheep track (which had actual sheep, and bunnies) for a couple of miles past dilapidated farm houses, before revealing our gorgeous cottage on the edge of a lake.

We settled into our temporary home after buying supplies at a local deli, and the cheeky cottage cat, a little ginger tabby, tried to sneak in with us. Andrew said she wasn't allowed to stay inside (she belongs to the owner) but I got a few cuddles in first. The sitting room has a Steinway in it, so I'll give that a try at a more considerate hour.

It's quite cold here, though not as bad as we thought, so we're toasty warm and watching Outlander to end our day, entirely appropriate given our wonderful setting. It's just so beautiful here, we'll post more photos as soon as we can.

Day 22 - New Year's Day

What a way to begin 2016! After a much needed sleep in we had a brilliant breakfast at our hotel and then hopped on the bus to Edinburgh Castle, and fell in love with this city. We spent the day exploring the castle, admiring the stunning vistas that it provides over the city, and learning about the Scottish monarchy and military history. The castle itself has never been breached since the 1300's, and it's easy to see why, the picturesque walk is up a very steep hill.

After our day at the castle, we wandered from shop to shop on the royal mile, then made our way to the huge Christmas market that is set up in the gardens. We had some dinner there, looked at the various stalls, and generally enjoyed the calm post-New Years atmosphere and the pretty lights.

This being the coldest we've been so far, around eight we decided to head back as we could no longer feel our extremities, so we were back on the bus to our hotel. With excellent timing, we were in time to watch the new Sherlock as it aired (it was brilliant) and now we find ourselves lamenting the fact that we leave tomorrow, though we are excited about our trip to Skye.

- Jess

Day 21 - New Years in Edinburgh

Today was awesome, though very, very long. We were up at five thirty to catch the ferry back to Scotland and, once on, it was a pretty good trip. This time we were in the front section of the ship, so we had a beautiful view of the dawn and the Scottish coast. Then we drove the stunning coastal route to Edinburgh.

Upon arriving at our hotel, we had a nap to ready ourselves for tonight, as we weren't going to make it to midnight otherwise. We woke up around five, and got ready to head into the city centre, which had already been shut down in preparation. A quick bus ride, then we were there in the midst of the thousands of people there to celebrate Hogmanay! We found a lovely little pub on Rose street, grabbed a table next to a lovely couple from Bristol, and whiled away a couple of hours getting to know our new friends, and enjoying tasty food a drinks. We made our way to the street party just before ten, in time for the ten o'clock fireworks (there's fireworks every hour from nine). It was freezing, but luckily there was no rain, so we squished along into the Christmas market for some hot drinks.

Nicely warmed up, we headed to the second stage where Craig Charles (Lister from Red Dwarf) was DJ-ing a set from eleven onwards. It was brilliant, we were able to get reasonably close to the stage, and we stayed for a good portion of the set before making our way slowly back towards the view of the castle, from which the fireworks take place. We were able to get a perfect spot that took in the whole view, and then it was a short wait until the midnight countdown. The castle was lit up, then it went dark, the countdown was over, and the best fireworks I've ever seen began. There was music, and of course we had to sing Auld Lang Syne, and it was time to escape the cold and get back to our hotel.

The city was running free busses, but we ended up waiting over forty minutes for one, as we were at the wrong stop, along with over forty other people. We had a mad dash to a bus in the distance, and finally got home around one thirty in the morning. I was so unbelievably cold, I couldn't feel my feet, but it was a brilliant way to ring in the new year. Time for a sleep, tomorrow we have some exploring to do. We hope everyone had a delightful New Years and best wishes to all of you!

- Jess

Day 20 - Belfast

Today was our last day in Belfast, and we're both feeling under the weather (just a minor cold) so we did some shopping, picking up some great bargains (Star Wars pj's and Harry Potter undies) at the post Christmas sales. We had a rest after lunch, then made our way to a very trendy restaurant called Made in Belfast, and we had perhaps the very best meal of the trip so far. The Adelaide equivalent is probably somewhere like Press, and the food was superb. Andrew had pork belly, I had salmon with hazelnut and potato croquettes, and dessert was an eggnog panacotta with ginger shortbread. What's even better, it was very reasonably priced, so it was a lovely way to spend our evening. With an extremely early start tomorrow, we're having an early night tonight. We hope everyone has a wonderful New Years, and we wish everyone a happy, healthy, and altogether delightful New Year!